I shall start in the beginning. All day long during class I would stare out my window which overlooks the ocean. I was watching these beautiful sets rolling in. Top to bottom, we call them. It's throwing the lip of the wave out making beautiful barrels and tubes. When the wave is almost done it even spits. These waves aren't as big as some that you see in magazines, but they are every bit as beautiful. The stiffling heat in the classroom just reminded me that there was no breeze which means clean surf.
As soon as class was out at 3 pm I ran outside and stood on the rocks that protect our school from the waves and wind. Looking out I see the rocks that give me an idea of how deep the water is. I know high tide past not too long ago, but the rocks are just barely at the surface, meaning there is just enough water out there. I grabbed my surfboard and ran out into the water. I began the long paddle out.
When I reached the white wash I realized quickly that the tide was out farther than I had previously estimated. In places it was less than waist deep on top of the reef. Even a deep duck dive could slam the surfboard into the coral, I didn't want to think about my body hitting it. As the next wave rolled in I could see the reef through the crystal clear water of the curl. I hesitated and thought about my options. Another beautiful wave rolled in and I decided to go out, but play it safe.
I paddled out past the break quickly, once I found a lull. Watching those sets I realizedthey are probably the biggest since I've been in the Marshall Islands. They are also the biggest waves I've ever surfed in my life. I paddled around behind the break for awhile surveying the waves, not wanting to paddle into the wrong one. Finally I picked one I knew I could ride out of. I paddled hard, dropped in and rode it down to where was shorter. I hit the lip a couple times and then went over the back before it closed out. At the point I started the wave was at least head high, but by the time it closed out it was only about waist to chest high, making for a simple and safe exit. Exactly what I was looking for. I paddled back out to try again.
I waited for a long time, not liking the truly massive sets that were rolling in. They scared me. A really huge set came in and I had to duck dive deep and push my board in front of me to keep from getting caught by it. I paddled out farther and waited.
That's when I saw it. It was big and fat in the middle with a nice curl to it already, but it sloped down and I thought it looked like one I could ride out. Right before it got to me it curled up nicely. I paddled hard and the lip of the wave threw me into it. As I stood I could already feel the power and speed. Instantly the top began curling over. I didn't hesitate at all, I completed the bottom turn and pulled up into it, looking for that sweet spot.
The next instant I was standing with the roof curling over me completeling the green house. The water was green around me, making a nearly perfect circle in from of me. This circle is where I trained my focus, instinctively knowing that to look down and focus at me feet would be the end of me. Dameon's voice rang in my head, "You've got to ride it out." I could hear the suck of the wave as it reverberated inside the "glass house". It was louder than I had imagined! The thought that ran through my head next was, It's so big! I had never been in a barrel this large before. In the next instant the tremendous power of the wave caught my board and threatened to suck it, and me, up and over the top. Judging by the lack of water under me, which this beautiful wave had graciously sucked from the reef and thrown over my head, I knew that to loose it now would be very painful indeed. Again, Dameon's voice rang in my head, "Put all your weight on the rail next to the wave, set your thrusters into the wave, put your weight as far forward as you can, and ride it out." In a flash I shifted my weight onto the inside rail as I felt my fins dig into the rushing face, keeping me from doing a flip inside the barrel.
I felt a huge rush of excitement thrill my body as I found the line in the wave. I had talked about it, asked experienced surfers about it, and thought about it. I knew I had to find that line and now I had. The tremendous power of the wave shot me down it with incredeble speed. How long was I in there? At once it felt like an eternity and an instant. I estimate 3-5 seconds inside the barrel, riding the line, which to me, is a long time. At first the circle of daylight in front of me widened and I almost rode out of it. For a brief instant I thought I would be clear, but then the roof over my head lengthed, the circled narrow and I felt it closing out. I knew that to dive off the board either way would be very painful, because I tried it both ways and hit the reef before. I stayed on the board until the roof closed in and I felt the water coming down on my head. Only then did I slip off to one side and spread my arms and legs wide, trying to catch as much water as possible so as not to hit the very close reef.
As I tumbled over and over and realized I had done it. One hand briefly touched rock, but I tumbled on the surface, just as Dameon and Cameron had taught me. I popped to the surface more elated than I had been in a long time. I didn't feel the need to keep surfing. I jumped on my board and caught the next white wash to shore. I was afraid that I would not be so lucky next time. There's always another day when the tide is up more. As I rode in I knew that this was one of the top 10 experiences of my entire life. When I got to shore I ran into the nearest apartment and told them the whole story. They were shocked and taken aback by my level of enthusiasm. "Only a surfer knows the feel." The question everyone wants to know is, how big? All I know is I was standing crouched a little, pulled up into the wave, with it barrelling over my head. My estimate is 8 foot face. Could be more, could be less. But in the end, it doesn't matter at all. All that matters is being in the shack. It's indescribable.
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