Of course after school I run out there and paddle out. Dameon, Zac and Tony beat me because I had to give a test to a student who had been sick. Cameron and I paddled out together. The waves were bigger than we had ever seen them out here. When I got there Zac was raving about a tsunami wave going down his throat and carrying him around the whole island. Dameon said it was a solid 8 foot Hawaiian, which means it had a 16 foot face. It broke way out from where they were surfing and took everyone away. We were to see more of those. Most of the waves were in the head and a half to double overhead range. Once in awhile a set would roll in that was a solid triple overhead and we'd paddle like crazy and duckdive. A couple times I didn't make it through and I got thrown into the washing machine. It's crazy in there. By the time you can paddle back out you are a good 300 yards away from where you started. It takes 15 minutes against the current to paddle back to where you were. 20 seconds in a couple triple overhead waves will do that.
I was able to catch about 4 waves. One I didn't set good and it was really choppy and I got thrown off the back when I was trying to drop in. Another wave just ended up being total junk. I jumped on one big, but choppy wave. It didn't have a sweet line, but it had a line. I was hauling butt down and I head Cameron yell, go faster. I looked back and saw him on the same wave, going the same direction behind me. It was pure hotness. Then I caught the wave of the day. I was in the perfect spot. I felt the board pull and stood up going left. That is back-hand for me meaning my back was to the wave. I'm not as good that way. A sweet line opened up and it was completely smooth. I made the drop and pulled into it. I was in the perfect spot. For the drop I was balled up grabbing rail. I came out of it a bit and stood up a little for the ride down. I came out the other end and yelled so loud everyone could hear me. Dameon said it was a really sweet ride. Unfortunately, Ben was not paying attention for that one and I've got no pics. But it was the ride of the week. It felt so good.