Thursday, October 1, 2009
Friday, Oct. 2
I had a good week, but there were some complications. On one hand, I got to go surfing almost every day and got some sweet rides there. Today I did a floater and an off the lip turn. The waves were smaller, but big enough to get some good speed. Once in awhile a huge set would come in. I pulled into one of those big ones going left. I made a sweet drop grabbing rail, stood up a little and went down the line. Right before it closed out I went over the back, hitting the lip. I didn't have enough speed and the timing was off to get air, but it was a sweet ride anyway. When I started I'd say the wave was overhead. Most of the way it was at least shoulder high. I'm working on my backhand style and it's starting to get better. I can feel my skill both ways improving and that's a good feeling. The complications I talked about is that Ben was using my camera to take surfing pics in the ocean yesterday like he always does. He loves doing that and he's getting really good at taking sweet pics. When he decided to go in he stuffed the camera in his pocket and body surfed in. When he got there it was missing. We thought we could find it because the reef has so many pockets and holes we figured it was trapped someplace or the string caught on some coral. We've been out 3 times with no luck. We're starting to loose hope. He offered to pay for it if we can't find it. We're both sick about loosing it. I used it all the time. Last week we went to Laura and I got some nice pics of that. I'm going to miss it until we can replace it.
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