It's a Miracle! Oct. 8th

Ben found my camera today! After a week bouncing around on the reef it was still there! Cameron, Ben and I prayed about it and I really believe it is a miracle we found it. On the downside, it doesn't seem to work to take pictures. The lens cover doesn't want to open. Still, all is not lost. First, we have a good battery and 8 gig micro SD card in it that are just fine. Plus, I've heard that the company will replace it if there is water damage. It's great we were able to find it.

Today was an epic surf day. The waves ranged from head and a half to a couple triple overhead sets. That's 15 foot faces. Dameon dropped in one one of those. I couldn't believe my eyes. Everyone was duck diving to try not to get sucked up and he's going the other way trying to catch it. Dameon got several epic rides. I posted a picture of him in a tube on facebook. It's amazing. I've pulled into those a bunch of times, but have only gotten to ride in it once. You have to be in the right place at the right time and be pretty good to stay in it. He's got his hand stuck in the wave to slow him down so he can stay in the tube and not ride out of it. That picture was from the day we lost the camera, a week ago.

Today I made some sweet drops and pulls into some really clean, overhead waves. It was really nice. I also went over the falls on one that was probably double overhead. I don't know how I didn't hit the reef because I was riding the lip down without my board. God protected me. When I popped up from that wave Dameon was trying to drop in on a wave. He was way late and got pitched from the lip. He almost landed on top of me. I duck dived deep. It was all I could do. I rarely get pitched because I err on the cautious side and pull out if I don't think I can make the drop. From a surfer point of view, I need to start trying those hard drops. On the other hand, Dameon and Cameron hit the reef all the time pulling into those late waves and I kinda like staying off it. Cameron broke the tip of his board today. It is still attached, but it's really flappy. It's going to be a hard repair. It's a mess. He got caught in white wash. That same thing happened to me today and I barely held onto my board. The nose of mine hit the reef but it only nicked it. I'll put some reson on that and it'll be fine.